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Goa Days: Travel in Paradise


Let time and tide drift endlessly by on the sunny shores of Goa, India’s hippie backpacker tropical Nirvana. I know I did…

In This Goa Article You Will Discover:

  • Tropical Bliss
  • Reasons to Visit Goa
  • How to Relax in India

Specific time does not exist in Goa. The sun rises, and the sun sets. That is all you need to know. And that in itself is a reason to spend days, or weeks, on the sandy shoreline of India’s smallest state, watching the palms sway, the waves crash and the tide ebb and flow.

Erin and I arrived in Goa sick as dogs, reeling from a bad chicken curry dinner in Jaipur the night previous. By the time I flopped into bed, following an epic eight-hour layover in the Mumbai Airport drifting in and out of consciousness as my body tried to rid itself of the toxin, I could not even appreciate my proximity to the waves, the gentle sea breeze and the silence (the latter a first since arriving in India a week-or-so earlier).

But awakening just after sunrise the next morning, a welcome by-product of jet-lag, antibiotics coursing through my veins, I immediately realized we had, in fact, truly arrived at the paradise we had flown 18 hours to find.


Morjim Beach, Goa — one of the state’s quietest beaches.

Morjim Beach is empty, save a couple of joggers and the morning’s last fisherman returning with the day’s catch. It is already in the mid-20-degree Celsius range, and the sea is just cool enough to be refreshing but warm enough to offer time-unlimited swims. The mercury will spike to the mid-30s today, with little breeze.

We nosh a light breakfast. This bout of food poisoning came on hard and fast but is leaving us quickly. The only lasting effects are to be an intolerance for curry that lasts for another 10 days, limiting us to simple seafood dishes and British pub grub. Could be worse.

Our first day is easy — a swim in the sea, followed by a long sit in a cozy beach chair, followed by another swim. Little time seems to have passed before we head into our local café for a cold drink, thinking it perhaps 10:00 a.m.; just time for a mid-morning refresher.


Wandering Morjim and Ashvem beaches; letting time slip away in Goa.

It is already 2:30 p.m. And this would set the tone for our two weeks in Goa.

Time is meaningless. Rise when you rise, sleep when you sleep. Do as you feel in the hours between.

In Goa’s far north and far south, away from the legendary Trance parties and gap-year crowd, it is tropical bliss as you’ve always imagined, although, perhaps, have not yet found.

As the resorts and crowds expand outward from Calangute and Baga in the north-central, quiet stretches of sand, like Morjim in the north or Patnem in the south, will no doubt lose a touch of their charm. However, for now, Morjim remains the Goa of your dreams, a place not where time stands still, but where it moves forward at the pace you set for it.


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About the author: David Webb is a Vancouver, BC-based travel writer, photographer and magazine editor.

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