The Baja’s signature landmark offers sightseeing, snorkeling and swimming galore — just watch out for dive-bombing pelicans. (Trust me.)
In This Mexico Travel Article You Will Discover
- How To Access Land’s End
- Snorkeling Opportunities
- Survival Guide for Lover’s & Divorce Beaches
Pelican bomb! Above me, as I snorkel offshore from the aptly named Pelican Beach, a 15-kilogram pelican tucks its wings to its side and drops like an anvil out of the sky.
Sploosh! Arm’s length away, the bird hits the sea bill-first, scooping up hapless sardines in its mouth-trap. Tiger eels be damned, it’s pelicans you’ve got to watch out for.
Here at El Arco de Cabo San Lucas (or Land’s End) — the signature landmark of Mexico’s Baja California Sur — action abounds all-around.
My girlfriend, Erin, and I had hired a water taxi from Cabo San Lucas’ marina just a half-hour earlier (for $5 US per person) and slipped our driver and additional 50 Pesos apiece for snorkeling gear. Following an informative boat-tour of the stunning rock formations Land’s End is known for, we now find ourselves bobbing about like marker buoys, dodging boats and weaving through fellow snorkelers as we chase fish around Pelican Rock.
This area is known for the best scuba diving and snorkeling in the area — Pelican Rock itself is only a few dozen metres offshore; a simple swim (keep your eye out for rogue water taxis), but beyond the rock, the ocean floor drops to an astonishing depth of more than 1,000 metres. This creates a shelf full of sea life for the swimmer or diver to enjoy. Lukewarm water and easy ocean currents allow us to get prune hands without even noticing.
It’s much different on the west side of Land’s End. Walking south from Pelican Beach, we wind around rock formations, past the “Magic Cave” (it’s magic because two people go in, and three come out… if you know what I mean), across Lover’s Beach — a calm, yellow-sand swimming beach with panoramas of the town of Cabo San Lucas — and towards the turbulent Divorce Beach.
Land’s End has the only beaches in the world that access both an ocean (Pacific) and a sea (Cortez). Although it may be tempting for the show-offs among us, no one should swim at Divorce Beach.
The powerful Pacific Ocean creates a massive shore-dump, where 25 tons of wave will subdue any swimmer before vicious undertows and currents drag him out to sea.
Earlier this year, I’m told, a married couple dared the waters of Divorce Beach. Four months later, their bodies have yet to be found.
“Do not even get your feet wet,” we’re warned.
And why would you? Lover’s and Pelican Beaches have ample swimming in a much safer environment. Still, the raw ocean power at Divorce Beach is a must-see.
El Arco — the Arch — at Land’s End is as iconic as it is beautiful. Our water taxi captain told us it resembles a “dragon drinking water,” and now that’s all I see. Many rocks in the area are personified in this manner — from the Sea Horse, to the Skeleton, to Scooby Doo. The Mexican people have a sense of humour and whimsy the world at large could learn from.
Fifty pesos buys me a Pacifico from a local vendor. Sure, it’s pricey, but under the hot Baja sun, it becomes the best cerveza I’ve ever had. I drift off into a sunburned slumber.
Above, a Pelican circles…